It's going to fast! I knew we were 9 hours ahead of Ireland but I didn't know that time passes 9 times faster. No wonder they prefer a slower pace of life here, when your moving fast things begin to blur. This is the first day we've had access to a computer so I'll try to catch you up.
We made it out of the U.S. with little fuss. I did wake up at 6:45 instead of leave at 6:45 but we made up the time by forgetting to pack the computer cord. On the first plane a panicky mom whose daughter was unwilling to sit by me, despite the captain pleading for everyone to sit down and my reassurance that I wouldn't bother her, gave me a first class ticket to so we could exchange places. Score! Just in case you are like me and have never had the opportunity to place your butt in the gilded seats of the elite let me fill you in. They give you hot wash cloths to "Freshen your face and hands." Verra nice! They have appetizers, 3 gourmet main dishes to choose from, dessert and unlimited drinks. But the best part was the 21.7 inch leather seat! And just in case you're wondering the toilets ARE gilded in gold.
Forrest and I passed notes between the partition that divided us first classers from the peasants. Yes I know I could have stood up and walked back there but really I didn't want my new friends to judge me for my all to recent ties to economy. So needless to say I was feeling pretty good about the trip at take off. No panicky flying, I did sleep some, and I think Forrest forgave me for ditching him like a hot potato at the first opportunity. He had to have a turkey dog for dinner, so there were some hard feelings when he heard about the ice cream dessert and crab and shrimp appetizer.
We arrived bleary eyed and running on an adrenaline high. We rented a light blue 4 door Nissan Note, wheel on the right, long rectangular white license plate on the back. I asked the attendant how to get to the M1 and he proceeded to speak a hundred miles an hour with a lovely thick accent. (Lovely is my new word.)His directions involved many rights, several lefts, and a couple of roundabouts. I'm sure my eyes were wide as I thanked him. I had no idea beyond getting out of the parking lot what he said. But I was the navigator so I had to be brave. I was thoroughly terrified as I took my seat on the left with my road atlas in hand but Bruce jumped right in. Somehow we made it to the M1 without incident. I would soon find that road names are completely irrelevant when the Irish give directions, landmarks are occasionally mentioned, and they love to mention the lefts, rights, and roundabouts in rapid succession. HOWEVER, we've managed to find our way every time so they must be on to something.
Luckily we started on the M1 which is like a freeway. Bruce does not remember this part of the trip now which is a little scary. The area from Dublin to Belfast looked a lot like Wisconsin to me. Lush green farms with the highway cutting through it all. We intended on scooting right by Belfast but took a slight wrong veer and wove through the city. I was very proud of Bruce and I for handling the problem very well. He maneuvered masterfully and I was able to guide us back to the freeway. Forrest slept through it all.
Belfast was not impressive from the little I saw of it. Not many pedestrians, lots of grays, weeds, and concrete. You can see Sampson and Goliath from the freeway standing by the harbor. At one time they were the biggest cranes in the world. Now they are an accent that screams "Industrial Section". I did make a point to glance at the harbor and note that this is where the Titanic was built, and as Bruce added, lots of other ships that didn't sink.
After Belfast the road shrunk to small roads whose borders were shrubs and rock walls strategically located where our shoulder lines are usually at. Very unforgiving streets that force you to learn quickly. I was often heard pointing out "car! curb! pedestrian!" The amazing thing is that we saw no accidents, dead cyclists, road kill, or smooshed grannies on our journey. Since there is no shoulder you would think that there wouldn't be cars parked along side the roads. You're right. They park right in the road, sometimes facing the wrong way. It is common to come round a corner and see a car stopped, think it's waiting for something, only to realize the driver is probably eating dinner in the house next to it. The already narrow road now involves weaving around these parked cars, into oncoming traffic, and back to the left side of the road. However it was probably the adrenaline rush that kept us awake that first day.
We arrived in Bally Carry after a couple of hours of driving. Exhausted we checked into Drumgart Farm B&B. Oliver and Elinor were very kind and had a lovely place. Lots of floral carpeting and wallpaper, family photos, and a nice view. The beds were very comfy but could have slept on a rock at that point and been happy. We slept for a couple of hours and forced ourselves back up despite the grains in our eyes and this urge to slash throats that tiredness brings on. We decided to venture to Carrikfergus for our first authentic Irish meal. Elinor recommended PaPa Browns. This sounded very pub'ish to me so we set out. We parked and then walked around the large castle that sits on the harbor. It was closed so we couldn't go in. But it was neat looking nonetheless. I think it was from the 1700's but I could be wrong. Then we crossed the street to Papa's. Papa's turned out to be the Irish version of TGIF. A huge flat screen tv was bolted to the wall showing VH1, brass knobs, new brick made to look old, and dark brown fake leather set the decor. Forrest had a hamburger and I ordered a chicken burger that looked like they used the same technique that's used on fish for fish and chips. Food was good ambiance was familiar, not what I expected.
After dinner we were determined to kill time before sleeping. We decided to tour the area a bit. This area is where my ancestors lived after Scotland, or maybe between their time in Scotland. This little piece of information was in the forefront of my mind the entire time we were in Bally Carry. We drove out to Island Magee and did the circuit around it. Very pretty with lots of wee old houses, sheep fields, and shrub lined roads. We stopped at windy beach that proved to cold to walk on. I took the Blue Note for a spin around the parking lot which was fun since I didn't have to do round a bouts, take turns, change lanes, or squeeze between on coming traffic and a stone wall. Very strange driving on the opposite side but Bruce and I agreed it feels weirder in the passenger seat. Probably because you feel like you should be controlling the car but aren't, not at all, not even a little.
After our island adventure we returned to the b&b and crashed hard for the night.
Our 2nd day began with a shower. Here they have these little boxes in the shower to choose your water temp and pressure. You also have to pull the string outside the shower to get it all going. It worked well. For the toilets you have to hold the handle down longer which took a few tries for us to figure it out. Elinor provided a very nice breakfast and we felt like guest in a Friends home. It is hard to get used to someone serving you a big breakfast without helping to prep or serve. We met an electrician during breakfast who is helping to do dredging work in the harbor nearby.
After breakfast we got directions from Elinor for the McMurrin Farm that is still in the area. She assured us that Racheal McMurrin is a lovely person who would love for us to stop by. The directions kept to the pattern I described before, but once again we found the farm without incident. I was not brave enough to knock so I only looked, snapped a pic or two, and turned around. I saw the old dilapidated school house that John said my ancestors would have attended. It's used as a shed now. Then we set off to find the Raloo grave yard. This venture was unsuccessful in terms of finding the grave yard but fantastic for feeling like we got off the beaten path and saw the Irish countryside. It was truly spectacular. There is field after field, and the continuous low hills seem to be holding them up toward the sun. The dramatic lighting through blowing clouds does amazing things to the different greens that are mixed into each field. The sea was a continuous rich blue border. We took lots of pictures to say the least.
The rest of the day was spent weaving along the coast through little villages and beaches. Cross the water you can see the shadow of Scotland about 15 miles away. For some reason I loved this idea. We stopped at one beach full of white rocks that looked out at two distant light houses on islands. A bicyclist was there resting. He lived nearby and we asked him if he enjoyed biking on the roads here. He said that he's used to it and been doing it for years. I'm surprised he's alive. We stopped in a wee village with a wee library with a wee Internet connection. I paid my 1£ to log on for a half hour. It was so cool to sit there and listen to the locals come and go. They chatted and ribbed each other about their book selections. I wish I'd written down a few of the things I heard because they sounded so clever. The library was about the size of a small 7-11, peeling paint, and the slowest Internet connection in the entire world. But you could tell it was definitely an important hub.
Forrest decided to get a hair cut here instead of a hat. Neither he nor I would recommend the place. 'Nough said.
We headed south from Cushendall to check into our Camping Barn. This was the first time we saw conifers. They are shorter than in Washinton. The Barn was adorable, white with red trim. It had a common kitchen and bathroom, a dorm room, and an apartment attached to the farm house. It's owned by a story teller. Unfortunately the apartment was accidentally given to someone else. Which meant that we were going to have to share the dorm with what looked like an army of children despite being told that it was one family. Lovely or not we decided we would go ahead into Portrush and see if we could find accommodation there. I was sad not to get to stay and walk through the woods in the glens of Antrim, but I'm sure there will be other opportunities.
Portrush was not what I expected at all. I thought it would be a quaint little beach town. Instead it was a massive Old Orchard Beach or Ocean Shores. The town was completely booked up since this is the vacationing hot spot for the locals and tourists. We felt lucky to get a room at the Best Western right outside of town. It was very nice. The only thing that made it feel different than the U.S. was the VERY small lift. 3 people and our bags fit but we were nose to nose. An Irish voice came over the speaker explaining which floor we were on. It took two rides before we were all convinced that it was a recording.
Forrest crashed early. He's taken a few days to acclimate to the time change. The fact that he tried to stay up all night before we left so that he could sleep on the plane, coupled with the fact that he couldn't sleep on the plane, made for a kiddo who crashes by 8:30 each night. But he's been up and at em each morning by 9 with Bruce and I. He's been a good sport so far and fun to travel with.
Bruce and I went out to dinner at 8:45 but there were waits at all the recommended restaurants. We found a hidden little place called Spinnaker where we had very peppery pepper chicken. Here you order your main dish and your side dish seperately and they are served in separate dishes. They apparently do not put sour cream on their potatoes here and prefer for you not to either. After dinner we were amazed that the streets of Portrush were dead! No one was out and about and all the stores were closed. Since it was a Thursday night in a vacation town we were surprised. We walked down by the water which was lined with big black boulders. There were about a dozen fishermen with lines in the ocean. Despite being 9:30 it was still very light out, warm, and sunny. We wove ourselves through the confusing streets of the peninsula full of roundabouts and one ways back to our hotel on the edge of town. From there I could see the ocean and watch the sun set.
Friday was a very busy day. We began with the Bushmills Distillery. The oldest licensed whiskey maker. Nice tour, good whiskey, done by 10:30am. Next was the Rope Bridge. It' s located on a spot where fisherman have placed a rope bridge every year for thousands of years to go out to a small island to fish for Atlantic salmon. It was a hilly 1 mile walk to the bridge but gorgeous. The sun was shining and the colors of the ocean and sand remind you of a tropical place. The bridge is very high and connecting two cliffs. The board down the middle was about a foot and a half wide with netting on the sides and two thick ropes for handles. My left leg was shaking way before I stepped on. I was terrified but determined. I tried glancing down but could feel my body begin to freeze and shake all at once. By staring forward I kept moving. Bruce was kind and very encouraging which helped too. Forrest crossed before me quickly and was a good person to look at as I crossed over. The island looked over the water to a large horse shoe shaped island and then further you could see Scotland. The ground was covered in long soft grass and the ground felt loamy; soft and with give. The wind was cool and the sun warm. I wanted to curl up and just stare and breathe. Honestly it broke my heart to leave this spot. Our pictures will not capture what it was like, so hopefully I sat long enough to hold it in my head. After about an hour we headed back across the bridge. Not as hard as the first time but still felt wobbly.
After the bridge we headed to the Giant's Causeway. Legend has it that Finn MacCool built a bridge of stone to Scotland for his love. But a Scottish Giant ripped it up while he ran in fear of Finn. What's left are thousands of hexagonal pillars of various heights and widths that make a great climbing park. It was very cool looking and fun to run around on. After exploring the rocks we hiked up a huge cliff and looked down from above. I was bushed after all the hiking. I'm a bit out of shape for all the moving but made it to the top despite my red face and wheezing lungs. Forres took great joy the whole time going to close the edge and freaking me out. We returned to the hotel, showered, and headed out for dinner. We did dinner at a tall table at the Harbor Bistro. This meant you sat at a common table in the restaurant and went to the bar to order. I had a duck dish which was fine. We returned to the hotel and did some journal writing.
Saturday morning we went to Dunluce Castle ruins. It was a small castle with a long and tragic history. Which included many raids, fire, and the entire kitchen and some staff falling off the edge of the cliff one night. It was interesting. The fellow at the ticket counter told us that all of Ireland used to be covered by woods and that wolves had been abundant. This is amazing since there are so few trees left, especially along the coast. The wolves are extinct here because of lack of space. I wonder if there is a lesson in that.
From there we went to Colerain. I realized the first night of the trip that I had left my book on the plane. Ironically I must have forgotten it right after reminding our seat mate to not forget his. In Portrush we asked our waitress if there was a bookstore in town. She said there were a few Korean ones. We were perplexed since we've seen very few non-white people in Ireland. Later looking at a map we realized she'd said there were a few in Colerain. So I guess we haven't fully mastered the Irish accent yet. Colerain is a college town and very nice. We found a bookstore and I bought my second copy of The Other Bolyn Girl (it better be good Naomi!), and a couple of books for Forrest. Then we sat at a Starbucks and journaled for a bit. Judge me if you like but dammit so far the coffee has blown!
After Colerain we went to a place called Down Hill . It was huge manor house ruins with a small domed circular temple on the edge of a cliff. The place is set on a huge bluff over looking the ocean and set in a field of knee high brown grass. The wind was whipping but it remained warm and muggy. They had cut trails through the field to the different buildings. Walking across the huge field to the temple was dramatic. The winds were whipping from all directions tracing paths through the long grass. Walking up the steps to the temple I felt like I might be blown off and right over the cliff. But one step inside and the world becomes silent and still. What an awesome effect! The temple is a large room designed to be a library. It is literally a foot from the edge of the cliff which sits hundreds of feet above the ocean. The brick dome was dizzying. 3 windows and the door pointed in the four directions. I would live in this temple if I could. The place is less than 200 years old but the house is nothing but ruins. It's neat because they have photos of what it looked like inside about a 100 years ago, it was pretty posh. These grounds are my second favorite place so far. I love wild wind, warm air, and long grass.
From here we headed to Derry. We've checked in and are planning a tour later today. We've met up with friends from home Jenn and Betsy. I will write more of this later, it's a little tense here today being the weekend of their big political parades. Or maybe I just feel that way. But I'd rather reflect on this part later, away from here.
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